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The Master Potters of Tonala: We open doors for you in this potter's gold mine of a town in the state of Jalisco, Mexico
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Tonala, Jalisco; A Potter's Gold Mine! This small town on the edge of Guadalajara is an absolute goldmine of potters and pottery and has been an important pottery center going back 3,000 years. When the Spanish Conquistadors arrived on the scene in 1530 they promptly named Tonala the “Factory of Paganism" as it was then a center of production for the clay idols worshipped in surrounding villages. It still produces clay items worthy of worship, and that, in a nutshell, is what this tour is about. The recent landmark book on Mexican folk art, Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art, lists some 180 of the most accomplished traditional artisans of Mexico. It is a glorious who’s who list of potters, weavers, feather artisans, metal smiths, etc. from villages throughout the country. Any given village might be represented by one Great Master artisan, and in a few cases a village has produced two, or rarely, three artisans that merit placement in the book. But no other village is as well represented in the book as Tonala, which proudly counts in with SIX Great Master artisans, all of them potters. For six days we will immerse ourselves into the world of Tonala master potters, visiting their workshops, spending a day with brushes in hand learning the decorating and burnishing methods of master potter Angel Santos Juarez, touring the National Pottery Museum and immersing ourselves in the vast folk art markets. While eleven different styles of pottery are practiced in Tonala, from majolica to black sgraffito and ornately glazed highfire, perhaps the most spectacular, unique and ancient is the polychrome burnishware. We will visit with master decorators such as Angel Santos Juarez, Nicasio Pajarito Gonzalez and Florentino Jimon Barba, all of whom are featured in the Great Masters book. In their workshops we’ll feast our eyes on their stunning work and see how this pre-Hispanic pottery style adapted itself to Spanish colonial tastes and became highly sought after by the elite of Mexico and Europe in the 16 and 1700’s.
We will also visit workshops of potters who do the meticulous ‘petatillo’ style decoration, see amazing miniature vessels and visit the highfire workshop of Ken Edwards. We will be staying in the neighbouring town of Tlaquepaque, a lovely town of shops, shaded parks, mariachi musicians and THE center for wholesale export of Mexican folk art (so you will be able to ship it home from here!). And as long as we are in the neighborhood we’ll take a peak into nearby Guadalajara, homeland of two Mexican legends- mariachis and Tequila. We’ll sample both, including a visit to a rural Tequila distillery. And to give us some perspective on life beyond the potters’ world of Tonala, we’ll take a two-day trip into the countryside with a visit to a small village in the shadow of the Colima volcano to meet an indigenous potter who makes comales (the essential platters on which tortillas are cooked). Our overnight away will be spent in a lovely hotel in the sweet little town of Sayula, known for great goat’s milk caramel and skilled knife makers. So skilled are they, in fact, that one of them was also featured in the Great Masters book. We’ll stop by his workshop for a visit. This trip will be guided by Nansee New and Angel Santos . |
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