Diamond pattern on a taupe field, by Arnulfo Mendoza

Zapotec Tapestry Weaving Workshop . . .
February 1 - 10, 2009

Behind almost every door there is household workshop with floor looms whispering away around the courtyards. . .

There is no other village like Teotitlan del Valle. Set at the foot of the green Sierra Madre del Sur and crowned by a white washed colonial church, it is a weaver’s dream come true, a village of 5,000 Zapotec weavers, spinners and dyers. Behind almost every door there is household workshop with floor looms whispering away around the courtyards as tapestries both bold and subtle are created on them. And the people of Teotitlan are some of the most friendly and hospitable people you will meet anywhere, ever.

There could not be a more perfect place to immerse yourself in a slow, dream-like, ten day journey into learning to weave Zapotec tapestries with a master weaver. Our teacher, Arnulfo Mendoza, is one of Mexico’s most renowned weavers: a profound traditionalist and innovator at once. He has appeared in many publications, most recently being featured in Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art where he was honored as one of Mexico’s top artisans. Arnulfo will work by our sides while we learn to create the classic undulating eye and central diamond patterns using a rich pallet of wool yarns.

Natural wool-colored tapestry by Arnulfo Mendoza

Between weaving instruction and studio time we will also see a demonstration of cochineal dyeing, Oaxaca valley rigid-heddle backstrap weaving and visit the home workshops of other highly respected weavers in Teotitlan. All the while you will be in one of Oaxaca’s most lovely and unique bed and breakfast hotels, Casa Sagrada, a place that Outside magazine listed as a “Top 10 Hideaway”. And for us it couldn’t be better placed for it sits as an eagle perch overlooking the village of Teotitlan del Valle. Our meals will be taken on the porch with its panoramic view of the village and the beautiful valley beyond. And our looms will be set up in our hotel so that we will have access to them all day long. Walk out the bougainvillea framed front door of the hotel and 5 minutes later you are in the center of the village.

This is a wonderful and rare opportunity to study tapestry weaving with a master Zapotec weaver while immersed in a village that lives and breathes all things woven, situated in the center of one of Mexico’s most lovely and traditional states and based out of a gorgeous and comfortable hotel. Consider this a once in a lifetime weaving experience, one that you will likely never forget.

Guides and presenters for this workshop will be Arnulfo Mendoza Ruiz and Mary Jane Gagnire de Mendoza.

Teotitlan floor loom detail

Day 1, (D) We will have our first meeting this evening at 6PM at La Mano Magica Gallery where we will meet our hosts, have cocktails, enjoy an introductory talk on Oaxacan Folk art by Mary Jane Gagnier de Mendoza, meet Arnulfo Mendoza and visit his weaving studio. Then we will head out for dinner and a Guelaguetza dance show featuring traditional dancers from various regions of Oaxaca in beautiful, indigenous regalia. Evening in Oaxaca at Casa Vertiz.

Day 2, (B,L,D)After breakfast in the courtyard of Casa Vertiz we will enjoy a privately guided visit to the beautiful Oaxaca Ethnobotanical gardens where our talk will be focused on natural dye and fiber plants. We will also take in a private textile collection, and time allowing, tour the Santo Domingo Regional Museum. Then we travel out of the city and to the village of Teotitlan del Valle and settle into our lodgings at Casa Sagrada. We will be received with lunch on the terrace and then have some free time to unpack and settle in. In the evening Mary Jane will present us with a talk about family, culture, traditions and the fiber arts of Teotitlan. Evening at Casa Sagrada in Teotitlan.

Tlacolula Sunday market

Day 3, (B,L,D) Sunday means market day in the nearby town of Tlacolula. This is one of Oaxaca’s largest and most active markets, drawing in people from all the surrounding Zapotec villages to do their weekly shopping. Everything imaginable as well as things you have never imagined are for sale in this market. To lose yourself for an hour or two in this market is a perfect way to step deep into Oaxaca, become absorbed in the swirling world around you and forget the rest of the world for a moment. And then, just when you’ve had enough of the intense sights, sounds and smells we will migrate back to Casa Sagrada for a peaceful lunch followed by a demonstration of cochineal dyeing. Then we get to work, setting up our looms with Arnulfo and beginning a classic Zapotec tapestry pattern. The evening is open for studio time. Evening Casa Sagrada

Day 4. (B,L,D) Well, this morning you are going to have to work for your breakfast. We will have a hands on morning cooking class where you’ll learn some of Teotitlan’s treasured recipes while cooking at Casa Sagrada’s outdoor kitchen. Then we will work with Arnulfo for 3 hours on his classic Undulating Eye pattern. In the afternoon we’ll head into the village to meet another charming master weaver who creates rugs with cochineal red, indigo blue and carefully selected tones of natural wool. The afternoon will be left open for studio time OR at your option, horseback riding, massage, a traditional sauna or hammock time. After dinner on the terrace we’ll make a campfire under the stars and enjoy a bit of live string music as well. Evening Casa Sagrada.

Casa Sagrada in Teotitlan

Day 5. (B,L,D) This morning we will begin to work on the Central Diamond design with Arnulfo through lunchtime. After lunch we climb into the van and take a field trip to visit the ornately decorated, pre-Colombian palaces of Mitla. In the stonework here you will see many of the designs that are currently woven into the rugs of Teotitlan. Afterwards we’ll visit a traditional mescal distillery and learn how century plants (agave) are turned into Oaxaca’s favorite firewater. You are also welcome to try some! Studio time in the evening. Evening Casa Sagrada.

Day 6. (B,L,D) We will continue our lesson and work on the Central Diamond design with Arnulfo this morning through lunch. In the afternoon we will visit the household of Januario Gonzalez where we will try our hands at carding and spinning on the standing wheel as well as enjoy looking at some of the wonderful rugs and large looms in this household. The rest of the afternoon is open for studio time or optional activities. Evening Casa Sagrada.

Day 7. (B,L,D) After breakfast we will be visited by a weaver from the village of Santo Tomas Jalietza who give us a demonstration of rigid heddle backstrap loom weaving. While she works Mary Jane will talk with us about traditional Oaxacan design motifs. We will spend the rest of the morning finishing the second half of our Diamonds and tapestry. Or, if you’ve been burning the mid-night oil, you may use the time as you wish. In the afternoon we will visit with traditional beeswax candle makers who create highly decorated, ritual candles that are used, among other things, to adorn the village church- which we’ll visit next. In the later afternoon we will have a work session with a master weaver on hand for questions and help on your project. In the evening Mary Jane will treat us to a slide show about the festivals of Teotitlan. Evening Casa Sagrada.

Day 8. (B,L,D) We will head into the village and do some shopping at the morning produce market beside the church. Our goal is to get our lunch ingredients as we will be spending the morning with chef Reyna Mendoza to create for ourselves a tasty Oaxacan lunch. In the afternoon there will be open time for working on your rug, exploring the village, going for a horse ride, etc. This evening, for a treat, we have invited some of the girls from Teotitlan to the Casa to dance in their traditional costumes. Evening Casa Sagrada.

Dyed wool - Teotitlan

Day 9. (B,D) After our final breakfast on the Casa Sagrada terrace Arnulfo will join us for a closing ceremony of cutting our weavings off the looms. Then farewells to the folks at Casa Sagrada and we travel onward to the ancient and great capital of the Zapotecs, the pre-Colombian city of Monte Alban. We will enjoy a guided tour of these monumental ruins and the broad vistas from this ancient hill top city overlooking the Oaxaca valleys. From here we will check back into Casa Vertiz and we will leave lunch time and the afternoon open for exploring Oaxaca, putting your feet up, enjoying a sangria on the town square…In the evening we will enjoy a private, farewell dinner at Mary Jane and Arnulfo’s home in Oaxaca as well as a tour of their art collection. Evening in Casa Vertiz.

Day 10. TBA

Day 11. (B) After a breakfast in the shaded courtyard of Casa Vertiz, it is time for final farewells and travel onward with your rug(s) and rich memories.