Photo by Jeffrey Jay Fox

MAYAN FIBERS AND CULTURE

From the humid jungle lowlands of Chiapas to the misty uplands, a journey woven of handspun threads and culture diversity . . .
March 7 - 16, 2009
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Visits to villages, weavers, and Mayan churches guided by Mayan expert, Chip Morris. . .

There are few places left in the world where the clothes people wear are the clothes they weave. The Mayan highlands of Chiapas, Mexico are one of these rare places. Their weaving is gorgeous, without question some of the most exquisite traditional weaving in the Americas. These Mayan weavers are the ancestors of the great Mayan civilizations that ruled the Chaipan highlands and southern jungles 1,500 years ago. The great cities and temples of Palenque, Chichen Itza and Tikal lie in ruins, but Mayan civilization lives on in cool mountain villages. Our ten day trip will focus on these highland weaving villages, and with Mayan textile expert, Chip Morris, as our guest guide in the highlands, doors will open to us that normally are closed to outsiders among these reserved people. Ours is an unparalleled opportunity to learn about Mayan weaving and meet the people who do it.

Palenque

Our Journey will begin in the sultry lowlands of Mexico and a visit to the legendary Mayan ruins of Palenque situated on the edge of the rain forest and plain. It is not uncommon to hear Howler monkeys as we explore the ruins (they are, after all, the loudest creatures on earth). Then we travel through the limestone mountains into the cool highlands of Chiapas. Enroute we will stop to visit the beautiful river and falls of Agua Azul with its stepped water falls and turquoise blue water. Bring a bathing suit for a dip in this most lovely of swimming holes. Finally we arrive in the highlands, leaving behind the humid forests and crumbling pyramids for the cool, misty Chiapan uplands, beautiful San Cristobal de Las Casas and a land of fabulous weavers. For lovers of weaving, travel and unique cultures this journey offers a rare opportunity to experience this land as few can.

Olmex stone head at Villahermosa

Day 2, Sun. (B,L,D). After breakfast we will visit the La Venta Museum and Park, which showcases several spectacular Olmec stone heads (one of which weighs over 24 tons) and pre-Hispanic stone sculptures. The park is also filled with examples of tropical flora from the region and there is a zoo with jungle animals such as macaws, lynxes, jaguars and boa constrictors.  After a leisurely visit to the park and museum we will head for Chiapas and the town and ruins of Palenque. We will arrive here in the afternoon and, time allowing, we will visit the Palenque museum in preparation to visiting the archeological site tomorrow.  Evening in Palenque.

Window in San Cristobal de las Casas

Day 3, Mon. (B,L,D). Today we head to the amazing (and sweltering) ruined Mayan city of Palenque, ancestral homeland to many of the Mayans living in this area today. Archeologist Alonso Mendez will join us for a guided tour of the ruins. Alonso has studied Palenque for years, focusing special attention on the way the buildings relate to the stars and their movements, which were an integral part of Mayan science and religion. Evening in Palenque.

Village of Zinacantan. Photo by Jeffrey J Fox

Day 4, Tue. (B,L,D). Today we make for the pine-clad highlands, but not without first taking in some of the most gorgeous jungle swimming holes imaginable. We will stop at the tall falls of Misolja for a dip. After cooling ourselves here we will travel on to Agua Azul, perhaps the most famous swimming hole in Mexico, where the mineralized, gem-blue water has formed step-like waterfall after waterfall, beneath which are inviting swimming holes surrounded by cool, green jungle vegetation. Being thoroughly cooled and rinsed we will travel on to the Mayan highlands and the colonial town of San Cristobal de Las Casas. Evening in San Cristobal de Las Casas.

Maya church warden's hat at Sna Jobil weaver's gallery

Day 5, Wed. (B,L). This morning we are joined by Chip Morris, our exceptional guest guide for our visits to the highland weaving communities around San Cristobal. We will visit the village of Chamula, meeting with the weaver Maria Patixtan who spins and weaves a great variety, including the thick wool skirts and jackets worn in this village. We’ll also wander through the Chamula market, perhaps visit the home of one of the Mayan religious officials, where Chip will talk about the fusion of Catholic and Mayan religions. We’ll visit the otherworldly interior of the Chamula church, glowing with candles on a carpet of pine needles and filled with Chamulan Maya doing different kinds of ceremonies. Chip will lead us into this mystic world and decipher the goings on around us. In the afternoon Chip will take us to the Sna Jolobil Cooperative showroom. Prepare yourselves, for here you will see the very best of the best of highland Mayan textiles. Sna Jolobil is one of the longest lasting and most successful artisan cooperatives in Latin America, now in its third decade and encompassing more than 800 weavers from 20 communities. Long ago Chip was one of the co-founders of this amazing organization.  Evening In San Cristobal.

Along the road to the highland village of Magdalenas

Day 6, Thur. (B,L).This morning Chip will take us to San Andres Larrainzar, famous for its spectacular wool brocade. Today is market day, which is an exotic treat. The San Andres market continues to be very traditional and very local. Most of those who come to buy and sell have arrived on foot, walking for hours from their ranchos, and selling what they have grown or produced. There will be spun wool, drop spindles, local pottery, a man selling homemade guitars, cooked chayote, pop corn, leather sandals, wooden tortilla benches, etc, etc. We will wade into the midst of this ancient custom and enjoy the swirl of our surroundings. We’ll also take a peek into the church and perhaps meet with a group of weavers from the Sna Jolobil coop. Then we head further into the highlands and to the village of Magdalenas where we will meet a Mayan gentleman who lives in a wattle and daub hut and makes refined and beautiful net shoulder bags out of agave fiber. Evening in San Cristobal.

Traditions Mexico group at lunch in San Cristobal de Las Casas

Day 7, Fri. (B, L,D). We head to the village of Zinacantan. Here we will meet Maya Tzotzil weavers who are cutting edge traditionalists. That is to say, they make their beautiful and ornate clothing on backstrap looms, based on ancient designs. But if those ancient designs don’t change in some way every 6 months or so, the Zinacanteco weavers are not happy. We’ll visit a personable family of weavers with many goodies to offer us, and a smoky kitchen where we are invited to eat fresh tortillas and salsa.  We will also visit the church and learn about religious and ceremonial life in Zinacantan. Back in San Cristobal, time allowing, we will have a short town tour with Chip. In the evening we gather again for a visit to Na Bolom, which was the home of the renowned Swiss and Danish anthropologist/archeologist team of Trudy and Franz Blom. Chip will show us around this wonderful, musty museum rich in books, photos and the sense of another era and we will have dinner at the Na Bolom long table. Evening in San Cristobal de Las Casas

In the village of Aguacatenango

Day 8, Sat. (B, L). Today we travel into lower country to visit the small village of Aguacatenango where we will meet women who embroider white on white blouses. Then we’ll visit the neighboring village of Amatenango where we leave threads for clay. This is a village of potters and we’ll visit with a couple to see how they create clay bean pots, doves, tiny figures, jaguars…In the afternoon we return to San Cristobal and let you loose to explore this wonderful town on your own, take a nap, catch up on your journal, etc. Evening in San Cristobal de Las Casas.

Master Weaver Maria Mesa Giron

Day 9, Sun. (B,L,D). After a slow morning soaking up the town we head out to the village of Tenejapa for a special treat.  We will meet Great Master weaver, Maria Meza Giron and her son Pedro Meza. Along with Chip, they are co-founders of the Sna Jolobil cooperative (See Maria’s work in Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art, pg 411). Pedro currently head’s the organization. We will be honored with a traditional and elegant lunch in the patio of Maria’s house in Tenejapa. In the afternoon we return to San Cristobal and there will be tad of free time for exploring the town or relaxing before we get together for our final dinner and toasts together. Evening in San Cristobal de Las Casas.

Mayan faces

Day 10, Mon. (B). After breakfast it is time to pack our bags and move on, back to our own neck of woods. Those traveling home today will want to transfer to Tuxtla Gutierrez, about 1.5 hours, where flights can be booked to Mexico City.

SUGGESTED READING

Morris, Walter (Chip), Living Maya, Harry N. Abrams, Inc. New York, 1986.

Fomento Cultural Banamex, The Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art, Fomento Cultural Banamex, A.C., Mexico City, 1998
.
de Orellana, Margarita, ed. Artes de Mexico, 'Textiles de Chiapas', No. 19, Mexico City, Spring 1993. English translation at back of volume
.
Gonzalez, Alicia Maria, The Edge of Enchantment, Sovereignty and Ceremony in Huatulco, Mexico, Smithsonian, Washington and New York, 2002

John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood , Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, 1843

Artes de Mexico, "La Tehuana", No. 49, Mexico City, Spring 2000. English translation at back of volume.

Noble, John, et al., Lonely Planet Guide, Mexico, Lonely Planet Publications, Australia, get most recent edition.

Franz, Carl. The Peoples Guide to Mexico, John Muir Publications, Danta Fe, NW, 1998.